Why is it called a beta?

Where does beta come from? Beta is the second letter in the Greek alphabet after alpha. Because of this, beta has been used in a variety of fields to refer to anything secondary. Beta particles (radiation) and a beta test (computing), for example, are the second in a sequence.

Why do rock climbers call it beta?

Origin. The original use of the term beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format.

What is beta called?

Beta (β) is a measure of the volatility—or systematic risk—of a security or portfolio compared to the market as a whole (usually the S&P 500). Stocks with betas higher than 1.0 can be interpreted as more volatile than the S&P 500.

What does it mean to break the beta?

Breaking beta is a term used when a climber sends a problem using an alternative route. In many cases, this means skipping hand and foot holds. Breaking beta can lead to a route being much easier or harder than intended.

What do you call a rock climber?

On this page you'll find 8 synonyms, antonyms, and words related to rock climber, such as: climber, mountain climber, alpinist, cragsman, mountaineer, and rock-jock.

Why Do Climbers Say Beta? (...plot twist)

What do rock climbers yell?

Typically, a climber shouts “rock!” to alert the belayer and anyone else at the base of the cliff to move out of the way and avoid looking straight up. If you hear “rock” and can't move, better to let the rock hit your helmet than your face!

What do climbers call El Capitan?

Modern big wall climbing began in the late 1950's and was developed into a fine art on its faces in the 1960's as climbers from all over the world have come to challenge its demanding routes. Called simply El Cap or The Captain, this immense granite wall rises 3,300 feet from the talus slopes to the Valley rim above.

What is a jib in climbing?

Jibs are screw on holds that can be used directly on the wall but also are great for volumes, aretes, and angle changes. Complex Jibs have an angle built in so they can be used to block, i.e. they fill the space between the grip on a Complex hold and the wall which allows you to dial in the grip difficulty.

What is a whip in climbing?

A whipper is a big fall. It's called this because when a climber falls on lead from above their last piece of protection, they'll plummet in an arcing, whip-like motion.

What is jugging in climbing?

Jugging is when the leader climbs the rope to get back to their highest piece of protection. For jugging to make sense, it has to be easier than climbing. This requires a lot of coordination between both the leader and the belayer.

What is a beta slang?

Beta is a slang insult for or describing a man who is seen as passive, subservient, weak, and effeminate.

Is there a symbol for beta?

The Greek letter β (beta) is used in math as a variable and coefficient.

What is sandbagging in climbing?

Sandbag. (verb) To soften the grade on a climb, or to describe it as being easier than it actually is. Quite often, you will hear climbers in the gym use the term “sandbagging.” It means to soften the grade on a climb because they think it is easier than the declared grade.

Why do rock climbers not have big muscles?

Climbers do not benifit from bigger muscles because it limits flexibility which is more important in climbing. Also, it is a relative strength activity where you want to avoid extra added weight and be as light as posible. They have well-toned bodies that are extremely strong but with less muscle mass.

Why are rock climbers so muscular?

The abdominal muscles are used as stabilizers during climbing, meaning without them it would be very difficult to keep your body secure on the rock. The abdominals especially come into play on steep roofs, when your core must contract to keep the pelvis in line with the chest while you're hanging nearly upside down.

What is a Gaston in climbing?

Gaston. A gaston is the inverse of side pull. In a side pull, the hold is oriented so that you pull in, toward yourself. A gaston is also oriented for a sideways force, but instead of a pull in, it requires a push out.

Why are climbers called dirtbags?

The term “dirtbag” comes from California climbers who literally threw their sleeping bags down in the dirt.

What is a dirtbag climber?

dirtbag climber (durt-bag kli-mer) n. a person who dedicates her or his entire existence to the pursuit of climbing, making ends meet using creative means. A dirtbag will get her food out of a dumpster, get his clothes from a thrift store, and live in a tent or vehicle to save money.

What is a jam in climbing?

Jamming means inserting your hands, feet or limbs into a crack and expanding or torqueing them to create a secure hold. Jamming can be difficult and sometimes painful, but it's often the only way to climb a crack. With practice, your technique will improve, as will the fun factor.

What does a muerte mean in climbing?

A MUERTE in climbing language means climbing for 100%, climbing on your maximum limit or even behind and climb or die style... It expresses our approach not only to climbing but to everything.

What is dirtbagging?

Dirtbags are people that forsake the comforts of home and material belongings to pursue their passion. The classic example is the dirtbag climber that lives out of their van and thinks tortillas with peanut butter is an acceptable dinner.

How do rock climbers go to the bathroom?

You poop into a bag, just like you do on Mount Rainier, and then you put the sealed bag into a “poop tube,” or PVC pipe with caps on both ends, which you haul up the climb with you.

How do you use the bathroom while rock climbing?

Climbers are required by law to carry a “poop tube”, a section of plastic drain pipe with a removable end. The recommended technique is to poop into a grocery bag, seal it in a Ziploc bag and stuff it into the tube, which is then resealed.

Who was the rock climber that ruined El Capitan?

How Ray Jardine became known as the "most vilified climber in Yosemite climbing history."